記得我在倫敦帝國學院教書的時候，一位同事曾表示：「台灣學生的批判性思考能力比許多其他東亞國家的學生更佳。」當時我已經是台灣的「鐵粉」，所以很高興聽到他這麼說。當然台灣並非一開始就是如此，我第一次造訪這座島嶼時也還沒被圈粉；但儘管這些年來，我也看到了一些台灣的缺點，我還是因不斷造訪而逐漸看見了這裡的美好，並真心地愛上了台灣。
以下我將從一個局外人的角度，分享台灣在我眼中的優點：
治安
當我是職業音樂家的時候，我不僅有許多時間不住英國，還經常旅行到各國參加演奏會。和其他國家相比，台灣最棒的一點就是非常安全，且遠優於美國、英國、法國，甚至東亞的任何城市。在英國的晚上，如果你採取防範措施，通常會沒事──這裡的防範指的是提前規劃好散步路線，並能分清路上遇到的哪些反社會行為雖然惱人但無害，哪些則會威脅你的人身安全。在台灣，上述前置作業都省了，你只要享受外出的夜晚即可。
大眾運輸
其次，台灣的大眾運輸也優於英國，且價格更親民。列車上的位子有足夠的踏腳空間，甚至還有地方給你放行李。英國的列車則沒有，更糟的是，它還不可靠。台灣的捷運很棒，我從沒遇過延誤；反觀倫敦地鐵則很少有一班車沒出點問題或誤點的。
台北捷運禁止飲食，確保了環境的舒適；當乘客注意到有需要的人，也隨時準備好讓座。有一次，我兒子和我在台北市外的山區健走了好一段路，兩人都累壞了，但當我們搭上捷運時正值尖峰，位置已經坐滿。一位乘客聽到我兒子用英文跟我說他的腿好痠，對方馬上起身讓位，令我們感到格外地溫暖。
在台灣旅行
去年聖誕假期，我們全家造訪了台灣東海岸。我發現我的夢想海鮮餐廳就位在宜蘭蘇澳，就像許多台灣餐廳一樣，那裡沒有廢話、沒有勢利眼的服務生，試著讓你感到能夠置身他們的餐廳簡直是你的榮幸、沒有「時尚人士」渴望成為目光焦點，只有高 CP 值的美味食物。英國的服務生往往看起來很糟糕，但其實並無惡意，真要說起來，這還替餐廳添加了幾分魅力。此外小費包含在服務費裡，所以在這裡也沒第二句廢話。
然而我曾看過一則報導提到，去年夏天，在南法聖特羅佩（Saint-Tropez）的度假村，服務生因為覺得客人小費給太少而追出去──我很難想像任何台灣餐廳的員工會抱有相同的特權感。
離開宜蘭後我們繼續向南，旅行到了花蓮。作為英國人，我對酒精並不陌生，這也是為什麼我在英國的朋友們聽到我推薦花蓮出產的「著名檸檬飲料」時會大笑，但我必須說，這真的是世界上最清爽的飲料（雖然下次我可能會加點琴酒進去）！
接著，我們來到一間花蓮郊區的原住民餐廳，是我來自台灣、過去在花蓮大學讀書的線上英文課學生 Irene 推薦的。這是個很棒的建議──餐廳遠離觀光路線，因此當地氛圍感覺比其他觀光勝地更真實，食物也很美味。隨著夜晚緩慢到來，老闆開始教我兒子原住民的唱歌技巧，我們則都陷在可口的小米酒中無法自拔──當然啦，這不包括我兒子，他專心練習著唱歌的呼吸技巧。
我們繼續前往台東，令人難過的是，我這輩子去過最棒的咖啡廳已經關門，但當地仍有許多值得推薦的咖啡廳。再一次地，我們住的火山溫泉飯店體現了台灣人不矯揉作態的特質，和歐洲健康度假村裡會遇到的態度形成強烈對比。從我作為爵士音樂家的角度看來，島嶼東南部原住民的藝術和音樂非常迷人，特別是可以追溯到數個世紀前、依賴各種打擊樂器和吟唱的傳統原住民音樂。
值得一提的是，墾丁的沙灘也很美，和許多歐洲沿海度假村相比沒有那麼商業化，使它給人的印象更佳。這裡的光線讓我聯想到在南法，啟發印象派畫家的那種明亮，令人心情大好。我喜歡港口入口的一整排酒吧，也喜歡可以在港邊船隻進出、因夜幕降臨而燈光閃爍的背景下，啜飲著冰涼的台啤──再也沒有比這更浪漫的情境！
來到台南，等著我們的是琳瑯滿目的高 CP 值街頭小吃，看來在這裡的主要活動就是吃！我們去了一間很棒的咖啡廳，有各式各樣的茶，服務不只是禮貌而是友善，如同台灣的日常。
台中的現代感和台南形成對比，我迫不及待造訪了后里的薩克斯風工廠。此前我並不曉得台灣製造了全世界三分之一的薩克斯風，且頂尖職業音樂家對其評價極高。我大部分的薩克斯風都是台灣製造，而我的 Antigua Pro One 次中音薩克斯風是我所演奏過的薩克斯風當中品質最好也最美的一支。順帶一提，我的太太也是「台灣製造」。
回到台北，我最愛做的事情就是造訪寺廟，這麼說讓我自己都不禁想笑，因為我在英國可是很少上教堂。我太太在我們結婚前第一次帶我去龍山寺，此後每次來台北我都會造訪，我發現廟裡的寧靜對我有益。另外，雖然很多我的台灣朋友聽了也覺得好笑，但我就是愛上了香的味道還有木雕藝術。和歐洲大教堂不同，你不需要付費入場。走出龍山寺，你就離街頭美食不遠了。雖然我還沒習慣臭豆腐的味道，但夜市的購物方式很有趣，很高興看到它在線上購物的時代中仍然得以生存。
最後，在本文結束之前，我必須提到爵士俱樂部──Sappho 和 Blue Note，它們都是我所演奏過最棒、最舒適的場地。關於台北，我能說的還有很多，但我可不想讓你因「甜度超標」而過度亢奮。
如果我住在台北，我大概會視這一切為理所當然。當然沒有任何地方是完美的，但我就是愛上了台灣。
備註：本文原文為〈Why do I love Taiwan? A British perspective〉，由作者授權換日線編輯部翻譯、編輯，以下為英文原文。
Why do I love Taiwan? A British perspective
A colleague when I used to teach at Imperial College London once remarked: “The Taiwanese students have better critical thinking skills” than a lot of other East Asian nationalities. I’d become a big fan of Taiwan by then, so I was pleased to hear it. It wasn’t always that way, and I certainly wasn’t a fan when I first visited the island, but whilst I can still see some drawbacks about Taiwan, I have grown to love it. So here’s an outsider’s perspective of some of the things that are great about Taiwan.
When I worked as a musician I not only spent some time living outside the UK, but I also travelled extensively to play concerts in several countries, so I have quite a lot to compare it to. The first thing about Taiwan is it’s pretty safe. Taiwanese cities compare really well to those in the USA, Britain, France, in fact anywhere outside of East Asia. On a night out in the UK, you’re generally okay if you take precautions. You plan your walking routes in advance and need to be able to distinguish between annoying but harmless anti-social behaviour on the one hand, and on the other hand, that which constitutes a threat to your safety. In Taiwan, you just enjoy your night out.
The public transport is way better than in the UK, and it’s much more affordable. The trains have seats with plenty of legroom and space for all your luggage. UK trains do not, and what’s worse, they’re unreliable. The MRT in Taipei is amazing. In London there is barely a single day without some problems and delays on the Underground, whereas I’ve never experienced any delays on the MRT. Once on the MRT trains, the ban on consuming food and drink makes for a much more pleasant environment, and people readily give up their seats if they feel someone is more needy. On one occasion, my son and I had been on a good long walk in the mountains just outside Taipei City and when we were back on the MRT it was busy, and all the seats were taken. One passenger overheard my son telling me (in English) that his legs were really tired, and she immediately offered her seat.
During the last Christmas holidays, we took a tour down the east coast of Taiwan. I discovered my dream seafood restaurant in Su’Ao in Yilan County. Like many Taiwanese restaurants, there’s no nonsense, no ridiculously snobby waiters trying to pretend that it’s YOUR privilege to be in their restaurant, no fashionable people hoping to be seen, just great food at a very reasonable price. Our waiter looked miserable, but there was no malice in it and if anything, it just added to the charm of the place. And the tip is included in the service charge so there’s no nonsense there either. There was a reported instance last summer in the resort of St Tropez in the south of France, where the waiters ran after a client for leaving what they had deemed to be an insufficient tip. Such a level of entitlement from restaurant staff is something I find hard to imagine ever existing among the Taiwanese.
As we travelled south, we headed towards Hualien. Being British, I’m no stranger to alcoholic drink, which is why my mates in the UK would have a good laugh at me recommending the famous lemon drink made in Hualien, but I have to say it is the most refreshing drink under the sun! I might add some gin another time though…We ended up at an aboriginal restaurant just outside of Hualien which had been recommended to me by Irene, a Taiwanese student from one of my online English language classes who had previously studied at Hualien University. This was a great recommendation - the place was well off the tourist trail, so the vibe there felt much more genuine than in other places that are set up for tourists. The food was great, and as the evening wore on, the owner began to teach my son aboriginal singing techniques and we all got stuck into some delicious rice wine, well, not my son, of course - he stuck to the breathing techniques for the singing!
On towards Taitung, and sadly, the best café I have ever been to in my life has now closed down, but there’s still plenty to recommend the region. Again, that characteristic Taiwanese lack of pretentiousness at the volcanic spa hotel where we stayed is in stark contrast to the attitudes you encounter at European health resorts. The art and music of the indigenous peoples in the south-east of the island is fascinating to me from my jazz musician’s perspective, particularly the traditional aboriginal music which dates back centuries and relies on a range of percussion instruments and chanting.
The beach in Kenting was great and again, compared to many European coastal resorts, it was much less commercialised, and all the better for it. Kaohsiung is one of my favourite cities. The quality of the light reminded me of the south of France – the same brightness that so inspired the Impressionist painters. It puts you in a good mood. I love the strip of bars by the entrance to the port, and being able to sip an ice-cold Taiwan Beer with a backdrop of ships navigating their way in and out of the harbour, and the flicker of lights as night begins to fall. Settings don’t get much more romantic than that!
Onwards to Tainan, and the overwhelming array of high-quality, reasonably priced street food. It seems that the primary activity there is eating! Went to a great café there that served all kinds of tea, and the service wasn’t just courteous, it was friendly, as is so often the case in Taiwan. The modernity of Taichung comes as a contrast after Tainan, but I was keen to visit the saxophone factories in Houli. I hadn’t realised that Taiwan manufactures one-third of all the world’s saxophones, and they are increasingly highly regarded by top professional musicians all over the world. Most of my saxophones were made in Taiwan, and my Antigua Pro One tenor saxophone is the best and most beautiful saxophone I have ever played. My wife was made in Taiwan too…
Back to Taipei, and this makes me laugh because I hardly ever go to a church in the UK, but one of my favourite things to do in Taipei is visit the temples. My wife first took me to Longshan before we were married, and I make a point of visiting it every time we are in town. There’s something about the tranquillity of temples that I find really beneficial. Yes, a lot of my Taiwanese friends find this funny also, but I just love the smell of the incense and looking at the wood carvings and artwork, and in contrast to European cathedrals, you don’t pay to get in. And once outside again, you’re never far from a street market – I still haven’t got used to the smell of stinky tofu – but night markets are a fun way to shop. So great to see this survive in an era of online shopping. Before I end, I have to mention the jazz clubs - Sappho and Blue Note, which are two of the nicest and most intimate venues I’ve played. There’s a lot more I could say about Taipei, but I don’t want to give you too much of a sugar rush with all this positivity!
If I lived in Taiwan, I would probably take a lot of these qualities for granted. Nowhere is perfect, but I found plenty to love about Taiwan.
About the author:
I’m Mr Reader. I started my career in music, playing the saxophone and I lived in Switzerland, Italy, Canada and then Nice in southern France where I played residency gigs in nightclubs and private parties around Monaco, Cannes and St Tropez. I’ve recorded 3 albums of my own jazz compositions and recorded extensively for other bands. I still play regular concerts as music is a passion you never lose, but I’m now an English teacher and I’ve taught academic English language at various UK universities and currently teach online English courses privately.
《關於作者》
我是讀者先生 Mr. Reader。我在音樂領域開啟我的職涯，演奏薩克斯風，曾住過瑞士、義大利、加拿大，也在南法尼斯附近的摩納哥、坎城和聖特佩羅的夜店和私人派對上駐場表演。我錄過 3 張個人爵士專輯，也為其他樂團大量錄製音樂。至今我仍會定期開演奏會，因為我對音樂的熱情永不消退，但我現在是英文老師，曾在英國數間大學教授學術英文，目前私下在線上教授英文課：Mr Reader 英國腔這樣説。
執行編輯：林鈺芩
核稿編輯：林欣蘋
